Frequently Asked Questions

We start with a phone or email conversation to understand the scope, then schedule a site visit to measure and assess the substrate. After that, we put together a written estimate that covers materials, prep work, and labor. We do not give binding quotes over the phone without seeing the space first, because the condition of the existing floor or wall affects the scope significantly.

Either works. Many homeowners prefer to pick their own tile from a showroom, and we are happy to work with whatever you purchase. We can also help you source tile and will order it as part of the project. One thing to keep in mind: if you buy the tile yourself, account for a 10-15% overage for cuts and potential breakage. We will tell you exactly how much to order once we have measured.

It varies by season. Spring and early fall tend to be our busiest periods. We can usually give you a realistic scheduling window during the estimate conversation. If your project has a specific deadline, let us know early so we can plan around it.

Porcelain is denser and absorbs less water than ceramic, which makes it a better choice for wet areas, outdoor applications, and high-traffic floors. Ceramic is typically less expensive and easier to cut, making it a practical option for dry wall applications like backsplashes. For showers and bathroom floors in Colorado, we generally recommend porcelain because of its durability in freeze-thaw conditions if any exterior exposure is involved.

Yes, in a practical sense. Light grout shows staining more readily in kitchens and high-use floors. Dark grout can look striking but tends to show efflorescence (white mineral deposits) more visibly in wet areas. Epoxy grout is harder to work with but resists staining far better than sanded or unsanded cement grout, and is worth considering for kitchen counters and shower floors. We will talk through the tradeoffs for your specific application.

They can, and sometimes they actually make a small room feel larger because fewer grout lines mean less visual interruption. The challenge is that large tiles require a very flat substrate, and the substrate work in older homes often needs more attention. We will assess the floor flatness during the estimate and factor any leveling work into the scope.

A standard tub surround or shower retile typically runs two to four days, including demo, waterproofing, setting, and grouting. A full bathroom gut-and-retile with floor and walls takes longer. We will give you a realistic timeline in the written estimate. Thinset and grout both require cure time before the space can be used, and we will walk you through that before we leave.

A tile cracking after installation usually points to one of two things: a problem with the substrate (movement, flex, or a hollow spot under the tile) or a crack in the tile itself from impact. We document the condition of the substrate during every install and photograph the finished work. If a crack appears shortly after completion and is related to our work, we will assess it and discuss next steps with you directly.